The Magic Table on the Road
Whenever my husband and I visit a city for the first time, we always sign up for a food tour. All major cities have them, now. We have enjoyed food tours of Paris, Montreal, New Orleans, Richmond, and most recently, Seattle, and Vancouver. A food tour is a tasty way to get a real flavor of the culture of a new place and meet interesting people in the process.
This is how it works: Search Viator or Trip Advisor for “Food Tours in (City),” and you will find a full menu of options, from Pizza & Beer Tours, to Best of Farmers’ Market Tours, to Gourmet Tours. Prices also vary from around $62 pp to $100 pp for a 3-hour experience. Most are excellent because they thrive on reviews; so, take some time to read through what people are saying to get more inside information. Once you book your tour, you will be given a place and time to meet-up with your guide and other fellow foodies with whom you will share a table. Usually, the meeting spot is the site of your first tasting. A food tour is kind of like an organized pub-crawl – with food instead of beer! The tours that are restaurant-centric often begin around 2pm and end at 5pm, taking advantage of the lull between lunch and dinner service, and tend to feel much more like a progressive dinner. Usually, you will visit 5-6 restaurants / vendors, walking from one to the next, and enjoying a sample of their specialties. Along the way, the guides, most of whom are long-time residents and wouldn’t live anywhere else, are a wealth of information about their city, its history, the local people, chefs, and culture. Equally as engaging are the people you meet – from all walks of life – from all parts of the world. Sharing food across a table with complete strangers may sound daunting, but the strangeness quickly melts away as you share a common experience.
On our most recent trip to Seattle in early March, we booked the Savor Seattle Gourmet Tour. We had heard that Seattle has an amazing food scene; how could it not with the splendor and bounty of Pike Place Market and fresh water offerings from the Pacific! Our tour guide Patrick was a local actor who, as a side job, loved introducing visitors to his hometown’s rich traditions and well-known secrets. He, first, informed us that “gourmet,” in Seattle-speak, does not mean “frufru” or “hoity toity,” but rather the science and artistry of preparing and sharing excellent food. Thus, began our education about the beautiful city of Seattle. We know it as a Tech Mecca for giants Microsoft, Expedia, and Amazon, but Seattle is also becoming one of the most important art centers in the world. From its renown Museum of Pop Culture (MoPOP) celebrating a rich rock-and-roll history, to Chihuly Garden and Glass, to street musicians, to their famous gum wall, the creative energy is palpable. You can even taste it in the food! Honestly.
One of the most memorable stops on our tour was a small pizzeria aptly called, Serious Pie. We were guided past the long waiting lines and the cozy communal tables to the wood-fired kitchen of this wonderous place. With smokehouse smells taking me back to a simpler time, we pulled stools up to the enormous wooden prepping table and received a lesson in chemistry. The intention and attention to every detail of the perfect pizza is no joke. The dough, lovingly crafted by hand over the course of several days, is massaged every 7 hours then blistered in a 600-degree oven for exactly forty-five seconds, before adding toppings which have been researched and particularly chosen for their specific qualities, freshness, and taste. With the first bite of the roasted seasonal crimini mushroom pizza with truffle cheese, it was like science and art got married and held the celebration in my mouth. It was, hands down, the best pizza I have ever had in my life. To use my southern expression to the fullest, “this was some serious pie!”
Just when we thought nothing could be better, we arrived at Heartwood Provisions, a modern upscale food and drink haven where each item on the menu is paired with a complementary drink selection. We enjoyed the Wagu beef jerky with sesame and spicy chilies, paired with a local beer, cold, with a hint of orange. The head chef and master sommelier put so much creativity and analysis into the menu (which changes daily) that each pairing seemed to tell a story.
Not surprisingly, Heartwood was also the perfect place to begin learning a little bit more about each person at this magic table. Their stories were as unique as the ones facing us on the menu. A young Turkish couple, Ezzra (in her French beret) and Murat (balding with a healthy beard) had just moved to Seattle from Australia because they had never lived in the United States before and just wanted to experience it. Stacey, a 30 something single mom from Ontario, was in town on business; she designs the spaces for homeland security in Canada’s airports. Jon and Ana, soon to be newlyweds from Austria, were house-sitting for free for 10 days in Seattle, through Trustedhousesitters, a new travel and pet care concept that is gaining popularity across the globe. This sweet young couple was looking for a place to settle, but they had a dilemma: his work in the film industry required him to locate near a major city, but she loved the country life and couldn’t imagine not having her hands in the dirt. I think of them often and wonder what they have decided.
Our roving feast took us on to the next delectable venue, Steelhead Diner overlooking Puget Sound, for hot, rich, Alaskan razor clam chowder, warm sourdough bread and butter, and a chilled glass of white wine.
By now, you can imagine that everyone has warmed up to each other, and nobody is going home hungry!
But that was not all; actually, the tour (in my opinion) saved the best for last. Fran's Chocolates. These chocolates are special. Fran Bigelow, inspired by a visit to Paris, pursued the philosophy of using the purest ingredients for maximum flavor. I thought my Hershey’s Kisses were the best, but now I know I was mistaken. My new favorites are Fran’s salted caramels, also the favorite of former President Obama; apparently, during his terms, he placed a box on the bedside table for every guest who stayed in the Lincoln bedroom. Fran’s Chocolates contain no oils or additives to make them shiny. No need. In every way, they shine on their own; even the shop itself sparkles like a jewel box. Located in the Four Seasons Seattle, celebrating the science and the artistry of excellent food, the piece de resistance is a large portrait of Fran’s granddaughter that hangs on the wall. From a distance, you see a beautiful art installation in sepia tones - the face of a young girl. As you move closer and closer, you lose the image only to focus in on another vision - thousands of Fran’s chocolates. It’s like pointillism but with chocolates! Amazing. See the video and photos on Instagram: _themagictable
I hope you are inspired to try a food tour – even in your own city. After each of our experiences, we have walked away having learned A LOT, not just about food and great eating spots, but about different ways of living, of navigating and managing the world.